You never talk of a “Cornish pasty” in Cornwall. It’s always pasty, pure and simple. The second most important thing to remember when considering this savoury parcel is that a proper pasty is a meal in itself. Putting it on a plate with chips is ignorant and a sure sign that the kitchen from where it emerged spared little regard for the quality of the pasty itself. Third, it is important to note that the filling always goes into the pasty raw. The classic pasty comprises of turnip (referred to as swede outside of Cornwall), onion, beef and potatoe. Skirt of beef is the preferred cut of beef but chuck is fine cut up into small pieces. The potatoe and turnip is chipped into flakes and the onion thinly sliced. These ingredients are layered and seasoned within a pastry round the edges of the pastry are brought up around this filling and crimped. The pasty is then baked for an hour in a moderate oven.
In Cornwall, there’s no consensus, as to what type of pastry makes the best pasty. Some say short, others that rough puff is better. Both schools agree that the texture has to be firm enough to hold the filling without cracking or splitting. Ann Muller uses the ingredients for short pastry but handles them more like a pate brisee, mixing the fats in lightly, but kneading the dough so it is slightly stretchy. This is an important trick because it makes filling the pasties easier.
The pasty is the national symbol of Cornwall. Pasty myths and legends abound. Nobody can quite pinpoint when pasties originated, but there’s a letter in existence from a baker to Henry VIII’s Jane Seymour, saying “…hope this pasty reaches you in better condition than the last one …” baker to Henry VIII’s Jane Seymour, saying ”…hope this pasty reaches you in better condition than the last one …”
Eighteenth century accounts from up-country travellers to Cornwall tell of labourers bringing up their families on a diet of vegetables baked in a barley dough in the ashes of the fire. A West Briton report in1867 tells of the subsistence level at which the miners lived and reveals their great dependence on flour. Many of these early writers expressed surprise that both children and adults looked reasonably well nourished on what they considered a very poor diet. Then, as now, the pasty had its detractors, but as a complete meal in itself it found a place in the hearts and stomachs of the Cornish who are proud to claim firmly that the pasty ‘belong’ to them.
Over the centuries pasties played a staple roll in the diet of the Cornish. However fishermen never took them to sea “It’s bad luck to take a pasty on board,” explains Ann. When fishermen set sail, they leave their pasties ashore. Miners would leave a little piece of pastry for the spirits, in the mine, that would lead them to a load and it is said that the Devil stays out of Cornwall because he’s afraid he’ll get baked in one.
Pasties are now an important part of the Cornish economy. I believe, from this small nation about £200,000000 is the amount turned over in a year from this industry. Tourism, here, is big business now a days and nearly all visitors want to sample the iconic dish. Many tourists find their way to my shop as they have either read that Ann’s Pasties are good or they have been told so!